Troyce Tech Tips

Please note that the information contained here is for your contemplation and amusement. Any action that you take based on this information is purely by your own choice and is not the responsibility of the contributors, the compiler or any organization associated with making this information available.

General Information

How old is vintage?
Current thinking gives us a vintage bike if it's 15 or more years old. There may be cases where a particular model or type started prior to fifteen years from the current date, but the production run extends into the non-vintage years. In that case, use the specific model year you have as the criteria.

What does NOS stand for?
New Old Stock. I.e., stock that's never been installed but was mfg years or decades ago, and is not current.

Charging motorcycle batteries:
Use a small battery charger ( 1 amp is good and definitely no more than 2 amps, cost $15 to $30). For a new battery, leave it hooked up overnight. For a used battery the charge time depends on its condition. Best thing to do is to buy a small battery checker at an auto parts store. Small eyedropper like thing with 4 or 5 balls in it, cost $1 to $2. Use the checker to sample the battery acid in each cell to determine the cell's condition. The number of balls that float indicate the charge in that cell. Instructions for use are included with the checker. If the battery is in poor condition it make a take several days to recharge it. It is also common to have one or more cells that will not take a full charge. If I have one or two cells that will only come to a 75% charge I normally will continue to use the battery. Anything much worse than that I replace the battery. If you have one or more cells that won't take any charge the battery has to be replaced.

A good unit is the Battery Tender, from Deltran in DeLand FL, and available from most discount houses. This unit monitors the condition of the battery and charges it as necessary. Even trickle chargers will eventually boil out the acid, this unit avoids that.

12V battery when adequately charged should measure out to 12 point something volts. Any less, and a cell has croaked, and it's time to trudge down to Wal-Mart.

Seats:
Tony Mier @ 904-734-5753 rebuilds seats, DeLand FL. Call for quotes
Sargents Upholstery @ 800-749-7328 in Jacksonville FL. Call for quotes
T.D. BASH COOL RETRO BIKES, 6822 22nd Ave. N. #220 St. Petersburg, FL 33710-3918 www.coolretrobikes.com

Bike running/operation:
Bike steers funny: check tire pressure, steering head bearings, swing arm loose or bushings worn. To check steering bearings, put bike on centerstand, grab fork legs low near axle, pull front to back. Shouldn't be any slop there.

Disk brake lever pulsates when pulled rotor warped, get new one or have it turned.

Twin cylinder bike runs at idle on both, but cuts out on one above idle: could be several single things, or a combo. Check points, plugs, plug wires, timing, choke operation, main jets, throttle cables.

After sitting for more than a few weeks, bike either idles erratically, or won't, but does ok up in rpm range: clogged idle, or pilot, jets most likely. Today's fuel has so many additives, it starts to go off and coagulate in just a few weeks. The tiny holes through the idle jets get clogged very easily. Clean 'em.

Carbs, including pilot jets/circuits, are meticulously clean, runs ok up in rpms, but idle is erratic or non-existent: slides could be swapped and installed backwards. It's happened to me. The cutout in the slide should face the intake side of carb.

Four cylinder bike doesn't run on cylinders 1 and 2, ok on 3/4. Or runs on 1/3 but not 2/4. Most Japanese fours utilize four carbs and two sets of points. If no or bad running on adjacent cylinders, probably the carbs or fuel. If on 1/3 or 2/4, it's probably the ignition somewhere.

Bike wants to "fall over" into corners while you're out doing your M. Hailwood impression: front/rear wheels not properly aligned to one another. Check your manual. If wheels can't be aligned then there's a frame or swingarm problem.

Starter button won't: check that neutral or other lights will come on - starter needs juice to work. Check on certain bikes that it's in neutral and kickstand up and clutch pulled (SRX250 Yams, for instance). After that, get out the voltmeter and start running down the short. If battery and cables are good, a screwdriver between the starter solenoid poles will turn starter, as well as make some really far-out sparks - watch out that those old carbs aren't leaking!

On certain bikes, Yam SRX600 for instance, it's possible to cross the hookup of the vacuum and fuel lines to the petcock. If gas comes out the carb venturi, but ain't getting to the bowl . . . then you know.

What model J-bike (short for Japanese bike) do I have? Give us the specifics, including serial and engine numbers, what the exhausts, tank, and seat look like, and we will eventually identify it.

Very high temperature paint products, exhaust paint:
VHT: PJH Brands, Scottsdale, AZ. (602) 991-8002
Order these products from your local auto parts store.

Speedometer Repair:
Take to automotive speedo repair shop, they have the tools to remove the little chrome bezels. Ice Cold Air in Daytona, 92/US1.

Clutch adjustment on most bikes:
Loosen all the adjustments as far as you can at both ends of the cable, i.e., make the outer housing as short as possible. Remove the cable up at the handlebar and arrange it so that it sticks straight up in the air. Starting down on the housing at that end, wrap about 6-8 inches of masking tape up at an angle to form a cone, making sure it's sealed as well as possible up to the outer cable hole that the inner cable disappears into. Spray WD40 so some other penetrant into the cone about half a dozen times or until you can see it coming out at the other end down at the engine. Put everything back together - don't readjust outer housing yet - and loosen the bolt down next to the big flat screw head on the engine cover that the clutch cable goes into. Use a large screwdriver and turn the big screw head clockwise until you feel a little resistance, then back off just a little. Retighten the bolt (it locks the big screw) and adjust the outer cable housing to your liking.

If all that doesn't work, take it to someone you trust to troubleshoot it.

Tire Terms:
ASPECT RATIO: SIDEWALL HEIGHT EXPRESSED AS A PERCENTAGE OF TREAD WIDTH. I.E. 255/70 (70% of 255 = 178.5 - height of sidewall)
RATINGS: "S" = tire good up to 112 mph. "H" = tire good up to 130 mph. "V" = tire good over 130 mph (tested at these speeds for 24 continuous hours)

Tire size
255 70 H R 15
255 = 255 mm tread width
70 = 178.5 tire sidewall height
H = rated to 130 mph
R = Radial construction
15 = wheel size in inches

ENGINE DISPLACEMENT:
pi x bore2/2 x stroke x # cylinders

GERMAN/EUROPEAN DEFINITIONS:
UPM = Umdreh(ngen pro minute (turns around per minute)

PS = Pferdest(rke (horsepower)

Sandblasting:
Once I sent a set of Super Hawk sidecovers off with a neighbor who has access to a industrial sandblaster cabinet at work. They came back with moguls in the surface, a result of the metal being heated and stretched by the blasting I found by reading about it a couple of weeks later. They were essentially ruined.

That ties to the notion that sandblasting forges the surface a bit which leads to dissimilar hardness within the same sheet of metal. Sandblasting makes stuff hot as a firecracker. Glass beading does too.

Additional info from Greg Shortridge: I have had good success using a 3.5 hp air compressor and a $50 sandblaster from Sears. My whimpy setup takes a lot longer than an industrial sandblaster to remove paint and rust, but it doesn't heat up the metal hardly at all. Never had a problem with warping.

Also, be sure to clean and degrease all parts prior to sandblasting to avoid blasting the grease into the metal. Paint doesn't stick well to grease. And I recommend using aluminum oxide blasting material - not sand. Aluminum oxide makes a lot less dust than sand.

There is a company in Canfield, Ohio named TIP. Telephone Number,1-800-321-9260. They will send you a catalog of the products they offer for sale. I just bought a cabinet that will take a frame. It is the 960 unit/Cost $949.00 plus shipping. The quality of this cabinet is great. They have smaller units that start at $289,$379,$799 and $849, complete with the light and vacuum. You will need to have the compressor.

Soaking or "Boiling" carburetors:
The bottom line is that for me I often finally just have to break down and boil 'em if they ain't runnin' right, for POM (Piece of Mind) if nothing else. It usually works one way or the other.

When the carb boil gets old/ineffective, it goes to a recycling center at a service station nearby, even though the stuff I use now is marked as environ-friendly.

Cleaning bikes with power washers:
Q: I keep trying to think of faster, easier ways to clean up ratty bikes. I bought a power washing attachment for my air compressor (basically a siphon into a bucket of cleaning suds powered by the compressed air) but it's totally ineffective. There's no quick replacement for TLC, but has anyone tried a real power washer? Does anyone have any great tips or cleanup procedures for ratty bikes?

A: Here at the shop we use a kerosene-fueled steam cleaner for the really ratty ones. It cuts thru the gunk in no time, but careless use can push water past seals and also blow decals off bodywork.

A: A real live high pressure washer using a degreaser will do a wonder full job in cleaning up the frame and engine. Use mine to clean my frame and had it dry and ready to paint in less than an hour.

Testing coils:
Q: - I want to make a simple coil tester. I have about 12 different bikes with solid state systems and another 5 or so with point systems, and a bunch of old coils. I would like to be able to test a coil and if it is no good, throw it out. Currently the only way I can test a coil is to put it on a running bike and try it out.
A: - In my past experience as a MM, that's motorcycle mechanic to you of the uninformed, I have seen very few coils "go bad." Probably one in a thousand that I check. Most of the problem is at the resistor cap, having the resister go bad. There has been some talk that "All Honda coils are bad" but I personally have never seen any of that. If its a battery points system, it seems the first thing everyone checks is the coil and its always good. It's usually some problem like dirty points, a grounded wire at the point connection, dead battery, poor grounds, etc. If its a electronic ignition system, most bikes have now certain "known" problems that are usually the problem. Seldom is it the coil. And usually when it is it's the "black box, and coil together as a unit type." Most dirt bikes shake the stator loose. Many Hondas have a crank angle sensor go bad when it heats up. CX-500's are notorious for having the resistor cap go bad. Actually putting the coil on a running bike is a good way to verify its OK. A volt/ohm meter is what I usually use, and if it checks good there I'm usually satisfied, but the customer usually wants me to put it on the machine and "let it cook". I've never seen one check good with a meter and check bad on the machine. Specs differ from ignition type to type. Primary can be from less than one ohm to 5 or 6. It is usually in between 3/4 to 1.5. Secondary varies from 7K to 15K depending on what type of cap is used. Of course the coils made today are better than the ones made in the sixties. They had wax in them then, but there's epoxy in them today. Joe

Bike covers:
Q: Can anyone recommend a good-quality bike cover and where to get one?
A: "Cover-it" is a company that makes all weather shelters and greenhouses. They make a small bike size enclosure, for a little more than a high priced bike cover. Children would consider it a tent, or playhouse. Quality stuff.

I realize this is not the usual "bike cover", but if you interested in a place to shelter your bike rather than just put a fancy blanket over it, for a free brochure, call 1 800 932 9344.

Paint and rust removal:
Just thought I'd report the excellent results I had this weekend removing all the old paint and surface rust from the headlight bucket of a '71 CL175. I dropped it in a plastic pail filled containing a mixture of about 1/3 muriatic acid and 2/3 water. After three or four hours, the part looked practically new. I found out that you better prime it right away after this treatment, though, 'cause rust starts forming within minutes

Additional info:
Next time (if there is one!) use phosphoric instead of hcl. Hcl is very active and the chlorine ions start "rust" right away. Phosphoric imparts a phosphate coating which inhibits corrosion and promotes paint adhesion.

For more information about coating (especially powder coating), see my website. http://www.execpc.com/~davewrit/index.html

Recoloring a tail light lens:
Some said use dye and soak the lens......some said use Testor red translucent paint......one said use stainglass paint from a craft store. Remember that the lens was originally color impregnated plastic so it will never be original condition again.

Opinions, with which I agree, on the case of the cold vs. Hot Spark Plug:
I say that the heat range of the plug does not control the temperature of combustion, instead that plugs come in different heat ranges to accomodate the combustion temperature they find themselves in, including the ability/tendency of the engine to dissipate heat.

Ergo, if you use a plug which is too hot, the victim will be the plug, same with too cold.

I assume that the plugs, like most devices, have an optimum temperature at which they will operate efficeintly and that the difference between a hot plug and a cold one is the temperature at which they will operate in a given engine. If your plug is too cold, that means it dissipates too much heat to the head, and if too hot, it retains too much heat. In both cases the plug is not efficient, and probably misfires, etc.

Oh yeah, that exception: I think the plug can run so hot--ie, one can install a plug which gets so hot, that it causes predetonation, and maybe even begins to act like a glow plug with in effect advances the spark to the point of engine (probably piston) failure.

So I have long regarded engine failures as a result of the wrong heat range plug to be an old wives (persons) tale, except in the one extreme case I mention.
Harold.

Early Japanese motorcycles:
Most of my literature refers to the Japanese, especially Soichiro himself, coming to Europe and observing well what they saw there in the early fifties. There's one at that Japanese show website, the KAWASAKI MEIHATSU SUPER KB1 1957 that is practically a two stroke version of an NSU Max. Also, if one observes the evolution of the Honda Dreams carefully, the influence of the Euro bikes becomes very apparent, even in the last versions. So, once we think about it, there's some common derived ancestry between our Allstate Twingles and the Honda C72/77 Dreams. Can you see it?

You're probably familiar with the story of how the KAWASAKI MEGURO SG 650 1966 is a near exact copy of the BSA pre-unit Star of the fifties/early sixties. But I'll relate it anyway. There's many intricate convolutions, but to make it short Meguro bought the design and started making BSA clones that always started and didn't leak oil (refer here to the last observation in your post). As an aside, Meguro built a version of the BMW 500 boxer called "Lilac" - don't you love it? Then Kawi bought Meguro and introduced the 650 as their "Big" bike into the US and England/Europe in 1966 or so - about the time the Honda CB450 DOHC hit the world stage. I remember clearly the four page ad in the bike mags, with the beautiful red, chrome/alloy bike spread across the center two pages with an orange backdrop. Bike was sold in SS versions with two high pipes up left side like a Triumph TRC, and the standard street versions. Most of the faults inherited from BSA were engineered out of the bikes by the time they stopped production in the early seventies. They were offered in the states only thru 68.

Model-Specific Tips

CB/CL/CA Centrifugal Oil Filters:
Remember that the thrust washer goes on the outside of the filter rotor cap, against the stopper pin.

CB160s:
The carb blocks (carb to head) are not symmetrical, be sure to check for alignment to air filters. Blocks should angle the carbs inboard.

HONDA CB125 (looks like CB160):
See Honda collection book (Japanese text) # 1. There was also a CB175 version of this bike

Parts for old Hondas:
Try your dealer periodically and have him check the computer listing; parts are sometimes returned to the central warehouses from the dealers and become available again. Same probably goes for the other major makes.

Honda CPs and CYPs:
The CP and CBM versions did have high(er) bars than the early CBs. The CYP77s (real Police bikes) have even higher bars, almost like Dream bars on them.

Chrome Hondas:
Chrome '65 Trail 55. They're listed in the ID guide, page 3: "Chrome-plated model has red plastic & black seat." There was a chrome C110 at the AMA museum during Mid-Ohio time frame in 1997. It had black plastic. I have photos of a chrome CB77 where the chrome on the normally chromed pieces is a different color from that on the rest of the bike.

Some dealers received chromed trail 55s from Honda for exceptional performance. I've heard that over the years, and the same about the chrome Super Hawks. Remember too that chrome was very cheap in the 60s. The Z50 from '86 was just a production model, it would appear.

The Benelli multis:
copies of Honda CB500 Four:
There's an article on the 750 or 900 six (also based on the CB500, not the CB750), however in the Oct 94 issue of Classic Bike magazine.

What I remember, unfortunately, is that the build quality and finish of the design seemed to suffer at the hands of Benelli. There were rough, poorly cast or machined visible pieces which did little to give the tester confidence in the internals. The test bike leaked oil, and was noisy. They seemed to feel that the bike incorporated the minor faults of the portly CB500/550 - unremarkable handling, average acceleration, general heft - but managed to leave out the reknowned Honda build/assembly quality.
I imagine parts might be a bit more difficult to source than for the Hondas, as well.

Very early or preproduction Honda CB450K0 Black Bombers.
The serial numbers of a particular bike in question were CB450-1003335 and CB450E-1001698. The side covers have no indentation for the tire pressure sticker. I checked the parts book and the side cover is drawn without the indentation, and there are side covers for serial number up to 1007 something, then a different part number after that. There's photos of black or dark side covers in the factory shop manual, but they have the stickers. Can't tell if they're indented. I realize it would be very easy to fill these in.

Then curiouser. Said owner supplied a very crisp photo of the area under the seat, and the bottom of the seat. The frame rails go straight back, just as they do on any bomber, but there's no seat hinge rods or frame crossover gusset. The seat has a very factory looking bracket that is welded to the pan and picks up the fender mount bolts in the end of the frame rails for attachment. The rubber bumpers are there, and two of them appear to be the hinge type, and the other two the plain bumpers, but they're bolted on in pairs front to back, not side to side. There are holes in the seat where the usual screw in seat hold down apparatus would fit.

A response:
These are features of EARLY KO's. The side covers on the first ones I ever saw were similar to the Superhawk, without sticker indentions, and the seat was bolted on. These were changed before the first year's production. I saw both side by side at a Honda dealers (Columbus, Miss.) in 1964.

The first snout seats (with upraised forward lip) I remember were introduced on the 1967 models (Shreveport, La- Powercycle Center and G&C Honda) This feature on the 450 and CB77 was designed to reduced the tank malady referred to as 'testicle dents'!

"Sloper" vs "Vertical" Honda 175cc bikes:
There are of course "Sloper" and "Vertical" 175cc engines in bikes imported here in the states. The Sloper is the older and looks very much like a CB160 engine. The Vertical eventually became a 200cc here, more or less.

That Honda produced a 125cc version of the Vertical engine falls right into place. As a matter of fact, having just found the other day that they produced a 450cc four cylinder for some market, I shan't be surprised to find out about any displacement in any configuration. I will never again say never when it comes to model variations issued from Honda.

There were both Sloper and Vertical 175cc twin four stroke engines sold in the US by American Honda. The Sloper was first, in a street and a scrambler frame, and sold around 1968/9. Starting around 1969, the Vertical engine was offerred in the Touring CD175, Sports CB175, and Street Scrambler CL175 versions. The CB and CL Verticals were sold thru about 1973, so there's lots of them around for parts.

Honda tank badges/emblems:
Q: I just picked up a pair of NOS CB 160 tank badges. Almost perfect condition. Are these as rare as the SuperHawk badges?
A: I assume you mean plastic/acrylic, not the metal ones? If so, and at the risk of being labeled a bubble popper, I have to say, unfortunately no.

Badges most commonly available at the time of this writing are CA95 that read, ":Honda 150," C200 "Honda 90," S90 "S90," Honda Sport 50 "Honda 50," with the CB160 being maybe the most commonly found. CB450 ("Honda 450") can be found with some effort, as can the "Honda Dream 250" and "Honda 250" although I haven't seen any of those last for some time. The ":Honda Dream 300" seem the most scarce in my experience, with the "Honda 300" right up there close. S65 - Red background with a black circumference - badges fit somewhere in the middle.

There's variations on the CB450, Honda 90, and Honda 125 and 175 badges in the style of the lettering, with the vertical or "Block" lettering being more rare. The block lettering was usually found on CL or street scrambler bikes.

Honda made what appears to be several dozens of variations and sizes of these acrylic badges. Some of the early ones were huge fisheye, and/or tubular looking things. I've only seen one example of some of the badge styles, and if anyone had asked me if that type existed before, I would have probably said no. Now I don't ever say never about Honda variations in any part anymore.

An entire article could be devoted to the Japanese motorcycle industry's 50s and 60s acrylic badges and thier applications.

Honda Interceptor noises in the top end, oiling problems:
Q: A friend has an '84 Honda 1000 interceptor. recently on a long 70 mile+ drive a "tapping" noise started in the engine. Oil level was good, no smoking, lots of power and acceleration. Drove for 4 more hours, then laid up the bike. Still makes the "tapping noise even at idle. Local dealer had dollar sign in his eyes at this story. Any ideas on what it may be.
A: There are a lot of possibilities, so investigate these two first. It could be the valves need adjustment. Since the original journals the camshafts fit in were not "line bored", use the special tool to pull the cam up when checking adjustment. If this is not available, set the lash to .004" without the tool. Inspect the cam lobes and the followers carefully for any wear, as it was common for the shafts and followers to prematurely wear out if the bike was abused and/or used with old oil.

This bike has automatic chain tensioners. These can be improved from standard. To keep vibration from fatiguing the compression spring, Honda put a little rubber tube around it. It's too long. Trouble was it dried up in the hot oil, and keeps the tensioner from collapsing and doing its job of keeping the chain tight. When you are inspecting the valve lash, if the chain is loose, and the tensioner will not collapse anymore to compensate for the wear, stretch out the chain, remove the tensioners and cut about 10mm off the tubing off one end to allow it to work properly. Taking these out is not easy as the camshafts have to come out. Setting the cam timing is a chore when the chains are stretched, best look at the marks before you disassemble as the settings can become retarded and installing new chains is R&R crank time. Welcome to the world of "Honda, WE Make It Simple." This engine is very robust and will last indefinitely if taken care of, read: Change the Oil Often! Joe.

Splitting Honda cases:
There's usually a special washer behind that nut (clutch) if it's the type of nut with four machined slots where the special tool goes. The little tangs on the washer are bent outboard into the wrench slots on the nut to lock it.

I've always been able to get that nut loose with a fair sized brass hammer and a decent round punch with about a 2-3mm tip. Nut is a standard or right hand - not reverse/left - thread. Knock it counterclockwise.

Starting a Yamaha SRX250:
If there is no problem with the ignition or compression, which there seldom is, the next thing to check is if it will start with ether. I personally use wd-40, and if it does.... then the choke jets are plugged. With most of all the bikes today having the vacuum style chokes, they don't work well if slightly plugged up. Either that or the idle is set too high, because the slow speed jets are plugged keeping the choke from working. its a vicious circle. and a lot of the new bikes have real small jets, and can use a jet kit( bigger jets).

This might be too obvious to do any good, but on my SRX, it's much easier to start if the petcock is set to the PRI(me) position, especially if it's been sitting any length of time. My admittedly half-baked and totally untested theory is that the little engine doesn't pull enough vacuum to fully open the petcock when using the starter. Also, it seems that a good run and bump starts it easier than the electric start.

Suzuki B120s and TC120s:
Here in Australia the B120 was the road bike, the TC120 (called a "Trail Cat" in the UK) was the trail bike with a three speed twin range gear box, sort of what we call an "agricultural bike" down under. I had one of the TC models, and still have the engine around somewhere. Great little bike, with the twin range box you can pull stumps out of the ground. The 120s had a nasty habit of catching fire, cos when petrol leaked out of the carby, it would build up in a basin underneath the float bowl and run straight into the points. So make sure a)the carb doesn't leak and b)that the small rubber plug that is supposed to stop gunk from flowing into the points is not perished.

Brake rotor noise or squealing:
Honda and indeed many Japanese m/c have stainless steel rotors that SQUEAL to a greater or lesser degree whether you like it or not. It is inherent in the material from which the disk rotor is fabricated. The grease they are referring to in the manual is a Silicon Dielectric grease available at any UAP or NAPA auto supply. One trick that does alleviate the squeal (although only somewhat) is to drill holes into the face of the friction pad in a vertical line and insert .5mm pencil lead from a mechanical pencil (see your local stationary store). The graphite in the "lead" pencil will lubricate a thin strip across the face of the rotor and helps to alleviate the squeal.

My advice is to use the stock Honda pads. Anything else in my experience (unless you are road racing) is a pain in the ass because as you are finding out they don't fit. I had a 69 and a 71 (CB750) that I tried various types of aftermarket pads (EBCO/FERRODO $SBS), not one set fit without modification and they all tended to bind. If your rotor squeals intermittently you may have a warped rotor. Also check to make sure that the pivot pin on the caliper bracket is very well greased and that it is not seized.

Honda CL72/77 tire sizes:
Honda CL72/77s use 300/19 and 350/19 tires. Some fellers don't know this and do use the 325/19 size. The fiche for the CL350 shows the 300/19 on the front and an 18 on the rear.

Suzuki mid size twins:
First introduced as a 305cc machine, this new engine group replaced the venerable T-20, "X-6". Released along with the new "X-5", and "500/5", the new 305 was overshadowed by these other models. Incorporating the newer engine design that all three were modeled after with the chamfered, or keystone engagement dogs, shift forks on separate shafts and oil pump on top of the engine case allowing easier clutch maintenance, it was a strong bike but all the fanfare and headlines were put upon the 500/5. after slow sales the first year, later units came out as 250cc, and 315cc sizes.

Only the advertising department was capable of making the 315cc, a full 350cc. Truly it only had 2mm bigger pistons. Smart performers all three, with robust and reliable 6 speed transmissions, they were soon replaced by SUZUKI's new three cylinder machines. The 250/350 were kept in the line up with a goofy square tank and plastic oil tank and sidecover, and ram air cooling, and finally got the disc brake, they all could have used since the beginning of production.

Without further modification and performance increase it lost out in sales to Yamaha's ever increasing model lineup that improved with age.
Joe.

A 50cc racing class:
The Suzuki A-50 engine group, is an excellent choice. I just finished an A-50 for my friend Mike Berg, mikeberg@ix.netcom.com, so you can email him for his opinion of how it runs.. This engine group was first sold in '67. It's of the rotary valve group with an inner rotor magneto and the RT kit it feels like an RM50.

To accommodate the 4 speed ruling you could use the beefier trans out of the TM75 which was the same engine group, and of course it's beefier too and only has 4 speeds. A, AC, AS, 50, TM, TS, 50 and 75 are all the same engine group. Mix and match for the big carb and improved parts, as you see fit.

A50 and TS50 kits are similar, and will interchange. TS has the down pipe. A50 up pipe. One could reproduce many of the improvements without the kit.

Email me if you want copies of the kit instructions. With the kit alone it put out 9.5 HP@10500 RPM! Peaky tho.
Joe.

Synchronizing multiple carburetors: (Synchronize carbs/adjust carbs)
Q: What tools are required? The bike is a 1977 Suzuki GS750. It's hard to start and after doing so is difficult to get to idle.

A: To syncronise the carbs you will need the tool itself - the mercury style work best and are the cheapest - as well as the tool to adjust the screw and jam nut at the carb adjuster. The process is self explanatory.

Other things to look out for are: always check the compression first to verify a sound engine and not waste your time trying to adjust carbs on a engine with low compression. Always check for air leaks at the carb manifold using a squirt bottle filled with gas - if the engine stalls out there are air leaks present.

If the carbs will not change with movement of the low speed screw, then the jets are probably plugged. I'll not try to describe a "idle drop test" but it is basically setting the different idle screws for the healthiest idle.
Joe.

Changing Kawasaki front fork assembly:
Response to the H1 Inquiry:
Change the forks at your own peril! Stock fork setup was the best design compromise at the time. Kawasaki 500 and 750 triples were intended to go FAST in a straight line, which they still do quite well. Other then the H1R, they had only barely adequate handling/braking characteristics for the power output.

For further info, contact:
Fran Golden
Kawasaki Triples Club
1076 N. Gracia
Camarillo, CA 93010
805 - 484 - 8322

Gasoline leaking into engine sump, oil: Honda CB450:
Q: 1976 Honda CB500T
When I opened the drain plug the oil and it came splashing out much faster than it should and was reeking of gas! What is the cause of this?

A: For some cosmic reason beyond my ken, lots of Honda 450 DOHCs have made their way through my life. About half of them had a habit of dumping gasoline into the the crankcase oil right down through the top end. This shouldn't happen if the float valves in the carbs are working correctly, but that's a marginal thing. The float bowls are really very small volume-wise compared to most other bikes. Best route is to replace the float valves with New Ones - don't try a shade tree gloss over - adjust the float levels precisely according to the book which usually means removing the carbs, and third, always turn off the flow of fuel with the petcock. The unfortunate thing about that third is that these bikes really prefer that the fuel be left on in order to fire up readily, and that the petcocks don't always completely shut off the supply. My way around the start up thing is to turn on the petcock about five minutes before I'm ready to crank the bike. It seems that the engine likes for the vapors to saturate the venturi area. After all that, I still check the oil quite often to see if there's gasoline in it, by smell.

Q: Could the gas have damaged my rings?
A: If the bike was running ok, the rings are probably alright I've had very strong engines do the gas to oil boogaloo. Gasoline is so thin it just goes right past the rings.

Q: Could the gas have damaged my clutch plates?
A: Not likely, it was never a problem with my bikes.

Q: How do I flush out the crankcase to remove the remaining gasoline residue?
A: Fill it with cheap oil, kick it through several times, drain and refill with the good stuff and go ridin'! It should be fine after that, just remember to keep the petcocks closed if you stop riding for more than a few minutes. And check the floats.
Q: Finally, what other potential damage could I have done with the gas leaking into the crankcase?
A: None really if it wasn't that way for too long, except it could possibly explode under extreme conditions if the gas were left in. It probably doesn't do the bearings or seals any favors, tho.

From Bill Silver:
I don't have much experience with 450s, but my observations with many of the older Hondas is that the petcock shutoff levers get warped or etched by old fuel and seep gas past the seal (if the seal is still sealing). This often results in a miniscule seep that will fill up the float bowls and usually results in fuel slowly dripping/evaporating from the overflow tubes of the carbs. If the bike is left on the sidestand (which seems to aggravate the problem), the fuel can seep down the carb throat and into an intake port. If the intake valve happens to be open, it can either fill up the cylinder or, if the process is slow enough, it will seep past the rings and go into the crankcase. Filled cylinders, upon start-up (or attempted start-up) CAN result in bent rods (CBXs are famous for this) due to the hydraulic-effect of the piston attempting to compress fluids. I would certainly check and replace the float valves and/or o-rings, carefully adjust the floats (make sure they don't have any pin holes causing them to lose their ability to "float" properly) and inspect the the petcock seal and sealing lever for any defects. I have filed off the high spots of a warped/etched lever sealing surface and then smoothed/polished the surface. Replace the 4-hole gasket, tweak the wave washer for a little more tension and you should be good to go, after flushing out the crankcase with a couple of quick oil changes.

Checking the cam timing on a CB77:
I got out my timing tools:
Vise grip pliers/Phillips screwdriver/Flat blade screwdriver/12Volt bulb with alligator clips on the wires/.014 feeler gauge

Then I started to adjust the points. I showed the feller how to set the right points and adjust the points plate. Seems the right points wouldn't come to "F". I looked at the "F" mark and then the Point Cam. The CAM WAS ONE LINK OFF! I would say that if the points plate won't come to the proper place for you to time the right points to "F" then you may have an engine that has the timing of the crank and cams WRONG. Sure enough the problem was as suspected.............

Carb work on a little Honda:
So it did fire up for just a second on WD-40. Keep in mind that you still need to set your timing, since you installed new points.

First check that fuel is coming into the carb freely as follows. Turn off the fuel petcock and remove the float bowl. Hold the float up gently with your finger and turn on the fuel. Let the float drop gently and note how much fuel is coming through. If it's dribbling or just dripping, there's still a problem upstream. If it's coming through fine, then proceed to the next.

The pilot jet is the most commonly missed and the worst offender. Unfortunately, it's also delicate and difficult to get to. If you haven't found it already, it's buried deep in the hole next to the main jet combo. I've found it best to purchase a decent new flat tip screwdriver, file or grind the sides of the tip it until it will just fit into the hole, and use that to remove the jet. Apply lots of force into the slot while turning to avoid stripping the slot in the jet. Once it's stripped, you need a new carb, so be careful. When you get it out, soak it in carb soak - the stuff specifically made for soaking carbs - at least overnight. It has a tiny little hole through it that is usually damaged by jabbing with drill bits or wire.

While you're at it, might as well remove all the jets, rubber parts if any, and the float and float valve (observe first which way the float is oriented - it can be put in upside down!) and soak the carb again with nothing but the body shell left. That way, the soak can get into the orifices that the jets were probably blocking. Soak all the jets and the float valve with the carb body. After soaking, blow through everything with compressed air.

Reassemble the body, screw in the air screw GENTLY to the stop, then back it out 1.5 turns. Screw in all the jets until they sock down. Screw in the throttle stop screw until the slide just begins to rise. Put 'er back on the bike and give it a try. All old Hondas like a full choke on initial startup unless it's really hot out.

Setting ignition timing, small Hondas:
Q: OK - It's new battery, coil & points. I do not get a spark even though there is current across the points. I did not disassemble the case or cylinder. Only replaced the above parts. Next?
A: Ok, you're making sure the metal part of the spark plug is well grounded to the engine head and there's no spark across the plug electrodes? Is it a good/new plug?

Next remove the plug cap from the plug end of the coil wire by unscrewing it. Then hold the end of the wire about .15 in. or so from the head using something other than your hand, so you don't get a shock, then switch on and kick through. If you get a spark it's the attachment of your cap to the wire, or the plug. In that case cut a .25 in piece from end of plug end of coil wire and screw cap back onto end of wire. You can look down into the cap wire hole and should see brass threads sort of like a wood screw. If no spark, then next . . .

When you say you're getting a spark across the points, I assume you mean that when you fiddle across the points with a screwdriver or whatever with the switch on, there's a spark there? Make sure the points surfaces are clean by pulling a business card or similar through them. Even new points sometimes have a coating of preservative or dust.

Ok, since you've changed the points, the ignition timing must be properly set. Keep the spark plug out of the engine to make turning it easier. Remove the stator cover, probably held by three screws, left side of engine. There's oil in there, so take necessary precautions for spilling, etc. Observe marks on face of stator rotor inside. turn rotor with wrench until "T" mark aligns with pointer. Set points gap to .014 in. keeping T mark at pointer.

Now to set timing statically. Points should just begin to open as "F" mark on stator aligns with pointer. This can be checked using a light and battery in series most accurately by putting one lead on the hot side of the points and the other to ground. However, it is also possible to use an extremely thin piece of paper to do it as follows. Turn the engine in running direction (check this by slowly pushing down on kick start lever) until points are completely closed. Push points open slightly with screwdriver or other tool (don't loosen attach screws) and insert paper between contacts. Now, pull with slight pressure on paper while slowly rotating engine with wrench on stator bolt in run direction. Paper will be released from points just as "F" mark aligns with pointer if timing is correct. If not, loosen points BASE PLATE screws (not points mounting/adjust screws) and turn entire base plate either left or right until paper will release from points with "F" mark aligned with pointer. Doing this, you are advancing or retarding the timing.

If you still don't get a spark at the plug or plug wire, check all connections around coil and between coil and points, verfiy a good plug cap by changing it out.

Appraisals of bikes, relative worth, value, what's it worth?, etc.
(Any references to currency amount are as of this writing only, and do NOT reflect what prices were, will be, should be, you think they are, or anything else commital)

A Super Hawk (CB77) with original and good to excellent paint, exhausts, seat, 'bars, speedo, engine right side case, acrylic fuel tank emblems (that read, "Honda 300" or "Dream 300"), and low mileage is a relatively rare item. I would place the final selling price of that unit at over $2K, where over depends on actual condition and mileage. The items I mention are the difficult ones to find, and locating and purchasing them can push the cost of the bike way up there.

A lesser condition bike, down to the one with all the nice cosmetic stuff in bad or missing condition, can be had for much less than $500, even down to $100 or so. It's the cosmetics that cost; an original new seat can be $250, exhausts set, $450.

Q: What's the significance of the Benly in Honda-Benly?
I've a couple of soft back coffee table books, mostly in Japanese and on heavy slick stock, with the most absolutely perfect photography of significant early Hondas. The shots had to be made with a very large format camera, probably sheet film. Anyway, Benly means simply "Good Fortune" according to one English foto caption. Dreams (lots of Hondas shared this moniker as well in other markets) were called that because the first, the "A" model (I think) was Soichiro's "Dream" of producing a reliable world market bike.

Virago Starter problems:
Bob Lombardi at 408 629 1263 (CA) can weld the planetary gear to the starter clutch assembly and fix that horrible grinding noise that indicates it will soon stop working entirely. Cost: less than $75 last we heard.