Building a Pressurized Brake Bleeder

TECH TIPS



By VJMC member Doug Rollins

Problem: After completely rebuilding the front brake system on my 1983 Honda Goldwing (including the master cylinder and caliper) I was having a very tough time getting enough fluid in the brakelines to fill them (and the caliper) using only the front brake lever. It would build no pressure despite (literally) pumping, bleeding, and repeating for over an hour. The problem was twofold: 1) as the brake system was completely dry it would take forever to use the Master Cylinder (M/C) to fill it as the M/C pumps so little fluid and 2) the M/C would drain itself and loose pressue due to the mounting angle.

Solution: construct a pressurized brake bleeder (not the same as the one person bleeders you see at the auto parts stores)

Directions:

1. Buy an 8-12" length of water pipe about 1" in diameter and 2 solid end caps for it.

2. Bore one end cap and insert a valve stem assembly (hole diameter is based on valve stem). You want the valve stem to seal in the hole. Most auto parts stores sell valve stem assemblies.

3. Bore the other end cap to fit a banjo bolt from the brake system.

4. Attach the banjo using rubber and metal washers arranged as shown in the below photo:

brake bleeder diagram

5. Tighten the nut on the banjo to seal it against the end cap. The rubber and metal washers should seal it and attach the banjo/end cap combo to one end of the pipe. Attach the banjo/end cap assembly to the pipe using teflon tape to seal it.

6. Make sure the other end of the brake line is attached to the caliper.

7. With a helper, fill the cylinder 1/2 to 2/3 full of fresh brake fluid.

8. Attach the end cap with the valve stem.

9. Using ONLY a hand pump and NOT a compressor, apply air pressure to the valve stem while a helper opens the bleeder bolt. The large capacity of the pipe should have more than enough fluid to fill the line and the caliper.

10. When the line/caliper is bled, tighten the caliper bleeder bolt and release any remaining pressue via the valve stem. Remove the end cap/valve stem assembly and drain any remaining fluid from the pipe.

11. Remove the banjo and bolt from the other end cap and keep the banjo elevated so no air enters the system.

The line and caliper will now be full. Bleed the M/C and reattach it as well. Finally, bleed the small amount of air in the system that got in when the M/C was attached.

Doug Rollins
VJMC Member (and proud of it)

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