Removing Wheel Bearings

By Len Nolan I read with interest the story Richard Sulik gave about his trials and tribulations with wheel bearing removal on his restoration. (See Richard's story "CB77 Rear Hub Bearings - An Amusing Saga" on the Articles Page) A simple and effective way of removing these bearings is as follows: acquire a large steel bolt, preferably one that is an interference fit in the hole of the bearing where the axle goes. Tack weld this in place then hammer it out from the other side with a suitable punch/drift. The sleeve then falls out and the other bearing can be easily accessed. Get a long bolt so you can cut the bearing from it and re-use it several times. I've used this technique successfully for several years and note that the application of heat whilst welding seems to loosen things up as well. Hope this helps other members. Len Nolan VJMC member
by Jim Townsend Remember that no motorcycle manufacturer makes ball bearings. They all buy these from other sources and they are almost all available from local bearing supply houses. When getting new ones, try to buy only the variety that is sealed on both sides and that do not need any lubrication. After you have the proper bearings, put them in your freezer right next to the ice cream and frozen steaks. Now using a propane torch slowly warm up the hub after you clean out any old grease left in there. The whole hub should be as clean as possible and free of any grease and oil. Get the hub warm enough so that you cannot hold it in your hand. Run over to the freezer and get out that cold bearing and drop it right in the hub. The shrinking of the bearing and the expansion of the hub should make it possible to drop the bearing into the hub without using any force at all. Be sure to replace the spacer between the wheel bearings, if the wheel had one and most do. No pounding or force of any kind is necessary with this method. It works best on bare hubs with no spokes, but that shouldn't make much difference. Do any polishing on the hub prior to installing the bearings.
By Doug Shrum Being a vintage BMW enthusiast for many years means coming in contact with un-caged ball bearings using a cup and cone principle similar to a bicycle. For their time I guess that they worked quite well -- and hey, they were in use on the bikes when I got them so that is a real testimony to their durability! Many motorcycles enthusiasts, like those of us with the vintage "disease", come in contact with cup and cone type bearings. These bearings use loose balls which are "pinched" between the outer cup and the inner cone. They are very common in steering heads and some of you may even see these bearings in wheels -- though I haven't encountered that type yet. An old BMW mechanic friend of mine suggested that I "weld the races out". When I first heard this I thought that he was joking since I would never allow any type of welding instrument so close to my pride-and-joy! Then he explained the process and I've been using it ever since to remove stubborn bearing races such as those pressed onto the bottom of a triple-clamp.Using a MIG (wire feed) welder, run a thin bead that penetrates about 1/4 to 1/2 way through the race. Run the bead around the circumference of the bearing where the balls would have fit. Be patient, and keep the weld away from anything other than the bearing race. You can even put a small step of weld that would later help when you tap off the bearing race with either a cold chisel or pin punch. I wouldn't recommend a screwdriver since it may shatter on you. Always remember to wear eye protection both in the welding process and when tapping on the bearing race.Bearings on the inside of steering tubes will almost drop out with very little tapping or cursing. I've been there (pounding, cursing, and bleeding) trying to pry these things out (and in the process) doing damage to the surrounding metal. I used this welding technique with great success on some of the most stubborn and hard to get out bearing races on the bottom of the spindle, the kind that goes through the frame's steering head.Since the race is pressed against a flat shoulder with absolutely no area to pry, and since I had already powder coated the lower triple clamp, it was extremely important that I use the utmost care when removing the race. According to my coater, powder coating will usually stand up to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit for a short period of time . Since the MIG process localizes the heat, unlike a torch, the powder coating was undamaged and I got the race off.Also, the only time you'd use this technique is if you had a new set of races in hand as I did for my Suzuki. I hope that this helps anyone who has been as frustrated as I have in the past or those just starting out!
by Dave Isacco The typical vintage motorcycle has a bearing at either end of the wheel hub with a sleeve or spacer between them. It is the sleeve that prevents you from gaining access to the back side of the bearing races and tapping them out. This method of bearing removal involves disassembling one of the bearings so that the sleeve can be removed. This may sound difficult, but it is actually very easily done with common workshop tools. Of course this destroys the bearing but it is probably bad anyway. The first step is to remove the thin metal or rubber seal covering the steel balls. Just pry it out with small screw driver. If your bearing is not of the sealed variety just skip this step. Now you should see six to eight steel balls held in place by a thin metal bearing cage. Using the largest drill bit that will fit between the balls, drill through the thin metal cage between each of the balls. Remove what is remaining of the cage with a needle nose or small screwdriver. Take a small drift and try to flatten the parts of the cage behind the balls. Now force all of the balls to one side of the bearing. The inner race can be slid into the space vacated by moving the balls. At this point the inner race and the balls should fall out leaving the outer race still in the hub. (Bet you wondered how they assembled ball bearings.) The sleeve, which is usually about the same diameter as the inner race, can now be removed allowing easy access to the outer race from the opposite side. From here it is a piece of cake. Just tap out the outer race from the back side with a long drift or you can use a slide hammer if you have one. Applying some gentle heat to the wheel hub will help ease the removal. And of course with one bearing out the other doesn't stand a chance. Dave Isacco Chardon, Ohio isacco@ncweb.com
The Ultimate Cheap Wheel Bearing Removal Tool by Ken Carlson Last night I tried without success to push out a wheel bearing on a small Honda wheel using the old punch or screwdriver method. Those who have done this, appreciate the difficulty in getting the first bearing out. Numerous articles have been written about the struggles in trying to get a punch to drive out the bearing with the internal spacer tube used by Honda getting in the way. Today I made a new tool and removed the bearings in minutes. I started with an ordinary ½” expanding sleeve anchor shown in the first photo. I then used a stationary belt grinder to make the tapered head small enough to pass through the inner race. I used a pair of tin snips to cut about 1/16” from each side of the expanding sleeve so that it would also fit through the inner race. Using the belt grinder, I also reduced the diameter of the threaded portion of the bolt so that it would fit through the reduced diameter of the expanding sleeve. Here is the finished tool. Slide it into the bearing about ¾” and lightly tighten it. Now when you use a punch from the opposite side, the force will push the tapered head into the expanding sleeve and push that nasty old bearing right out. It worked slick and the tool is reusable.

By Len Nolan

I read with interest the story Richard Sulik gave about his trials and tribulations with wheel bearing removal on his restoration. (See Richard's story "CB77 Rear Hub Bearings - An Amusing Saga" on the Articles Page) A simple and effective way of removing these bearings is as follows: acquire a large steel bolt, preferably one that is an interference fit in the hole of the bearing where the axle goes. Tack weld this in place then hammer it out from the other side with a suitable punch/drift. The sleeve then falls out and the other bearing can be easily accessed. Get a long bolt so you can cut the bearing from it and re-use it several times. I've used this technique successfully for several years and note that the application of heat whilst welding seems to loosen things up as well. Hope this helps other members. Len Nolan VJMC member

by Jim Townsend

Remember that no motorcycle manufacturer makes ball bearings. They all buy these from other sources and they are almost all available from local bearing supply houses. When getting new ones, try to buy only the variety that is sealed on both sides and that do not need any lubrication.

After you have the proper bearings, put them in your freezer right next to the ice cream and frozen steaks. Now using a propane torch slowly warm up the hub after you clean out any old grease left in there. The whole hub should be as clean as possible and free of any grease and oil. Get the hub warm enough so that you cannot hold it in your hand. Run over to the freezer and get out that cold bearing and drop it right in the hub. The shrinking of the bearing and the expansion of the hub should make it possible to drop the bearing into the hub without using any force at all. Be sure to replace the spacer between the wheel bearings, if the wheel had one and most do.

No pounding or force of any kind is necessary with this method. It works best on bare hubs with no spokes, but that shouldn't make much difference. Do any polishing on the hub prior to installing the bearings.

By Doug Shrum

Being a vintage BMW enthusiast for many years means coming in contact with un-caged ball bearings using a cup and cone principle similar to a bicycle. For their time I guess that they worked quite well -- and hey, they were in use on the bikes when I got them so that is a real testimony to their durability! Many motorcycles enthusiasts, like those of us with the vintage "disease", come in contact with cup and cone type bearings. These bearings use loose balls which are "pinched" between the outer cup and the inner cone. They are very common in steering heads and some of you may even see these bearings in wheels -- though I haven't encountered that type yet.

An old BMW mechanic friend of mine suggested that I "weld the races out". When I first heard this I thought that he was joking since I would never allow any type of welding instrument so close to my pride-and-joy! Then he explained the process and I've been using it ever since to remove stubborn bearing races such as those pressed onto the bottom of a triple-clamp.Using a MIG (wire feed) welder, run a thin bead that penetrates about 1/4 to 1/2 way through the race. Run the bead around the circumference of the bearing where the balls would have fit. Be patient, and keep the weld away from anything other than the bearing race. You can even put a small step of weld that would later help when you tap off the bearing race with either a cold chisel or pin punch. I wouldn't recommend a screwdriver since it may shatter on you. Always remember to wear eye protection both in the welding process and when tapping on the bearing race.Bearings on the inside of steering tubes will almost drop out with very little tapping or cursing. I've been there (pounding, cursing, and bleeding) trying to pry these things out (and in the process) doing damage to the surrounding metal. I used this welding technique with great success on some of the most stubborn and hard to get out bearing races on the bottom of the spindle, the kind that goes through the frame's steering head.Since the race is pressed against a flat shoulder with absolutely no area to pry, and since I had already powder coated the lower triple clamp, it was extremely important that I use the utmost care when removing the race.

According to my coater, powder coating will usually stand up to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit for a short period of time . Since the MIG process localizes the heat, unlike a torch, the powder coating was undamaged and I got the race off.Also, the only time you'd use this technique is if you had a new set of races in hand as I did for my Suzuki. I hope that this helps anyone who has been as frustrated as I have in the past or those just starting out!

by Dave Isacco

The typical vintage motorcycle has a bearing at either end of the wheel hub with a sleeve or spacer between them. It is the sleeve that prevents you from gaining access to the back side of the bearing races and tapping them out. This method of bearing removal involves disassembling one of the bearings so that the sleeve can be removed. This may sound difficult, but it is actually very easily done with common workshop tools. Of course this destroys the bearing but it is probably bad anyway. The first step is to remove the thin metal or rubber seal covering the steel balls. Just pry it out with small screw driver. If your bearing is not of the sealed variety just skip this step. Now you should see six to eight steel balls held in place by a thin metal bearing cage. Using the largest drill bit that will fit between the balls, drill through the thin metal cage between each of the balls. Remove what is remaining of the cage with a needle nose or small screwdriver. Take a small drift and try to flatten the parts of the cage behind the balls. Now force all of the balls to one side of the bearing. The inner race can be slid into the space vacated by moving the balls. At this point the inner race and the balls should fall out leaving the outer race still in the hub. (Bet you wondered how they assembled ball bearings.) The sleeve, which is usually about the same diameter as the inner race, can now be removed allowing easy access to the outer race from the opposite side. From here it is a piece of cake. Just tap out the outer race from the back side with a long drift or you can use a slide hammer if you have one. Applying some gentle heat to the wheel hub will help ease the removal. And of course with one bearing out the other doesn't stand a chance.

Dave Isacco
Chardon, Ohio
isacco@ncweb.com

The Ultimate Cheap Wheel Bearing Removal Tool
by Ken Carlson

Last night I tried without success to push out a wheel bearing on a small Honda wheel using the old punch or screwdriver method. Those who have done this, appreciate the difficulty in getting the first bearing out. Numerous articles have been written about the struggles in trying to get a punch to drive out the bearing with the internal spacer tube used by Honda getting in the way.

Today I made a new tool and removed the bearings in minutes.

I started with an ordinary ½” expanding sleeve anchor shown in the first photo.

I then used a stationary belt grinder to make the tapered head small enough to pass through the inner race. I used a pair of tin snips to cut about 1/16” from each side of the expanding sleeve so that it would also fit through the inner race. Using the belt grinder, I also reduced the diameter of the threaded portion of the bolt so that it would fit through the reduced diameter of the expanding sleeve.

Here is the finished tool. Slide it into the bearing about ¾” and lightly tighten it. Now when you use a punch from the opposite side, the force will push the tapered head into the expanding sleeve and push that nasty old bearing right out. It worked slick and the tool is reusable.