Making Reproduction Decals

They say necessity is the mother of invention. I needed graphics for a couple of my motorcycles that I was not able to find or found to be of inferior quality. Being that my background is in the graphic design field I decided to explore the option of creating my own decals. What started out as just an idea to help my own restorations grew into a side business, but as more people saw my work, and word of mouth spread, I was able to re-create hard to find decals and orders started coming in. I now have expanded my library to be one of the most extensive in existence and taken my love of motorcycles and turned it into a business. 

The process of creating decals can be done in a number of ways. The ideal circumstance would be that I receive new old stock decals to use as a guide to create artwork and to color match. Another alternative, although more complicated, is to work from an original decal attached to bodywork. What makes this tricky is working from a curved surface as well as to finding graphics that have not been overexposed to sunlight causing fading, thus making color matching more involved. Creating art from original bodywork usually involves scanning areas and tracing sections.

To ensure the accuracy of the decals the appropriate material to print them on must be selected. If metallic silver is called for then that is what is used. If there was a flaw in the original decal, the flaw is also kept to maintain accuracy. I've knowingly left spelling errors on warning decals because that was the way the original was printed. Part of what is tricky with the materials used is to predict how certain colors will look when printed on different backgrounds. Metallic silver for example, will give many colors a metallic effect and often lighten their appearance. This is where my Graphic Design training enters into the process as well as the skills of my printer. 

I must stress that all of my decals are printed and die cut just as the originals were. There are still companies out there who are cutting vinyl and adding a layer for each color. Using this layering method a simple graphic can end up being too thick to apply properly, will be more susceptible to damage and will look incorrect.

To apply larger graphics you have to lightly mist the entire surface with a mix of water and a very small amount of dishwashing soap. This allows lifting to reposition if necessary. When satisfied with the placement, start from the middle and slowly press decal down working outward. Some people prefer to work from one side to the other, but I tend to start in the middle. This technique avoids unwanted air bubbles. A small squeegee works well.

The decals I produce are less prone to fade than the originals and are extremely durable thus allowing them to stand up to fuel spillage. A a scratch resistant coating is applied on decals that will be applied to high wear areas of the motorcycle. They can be clear coated as well. With today's technology I am able to create decals which, for the most part, are superior to the original.

The one thing that is important for you to know is this; I am unfortunately unable to do any reproductions from a photograph. To ensure the accuracy of my reproductions I must use the original to work from, otherwise I could not match the shape, size, material and color. It is not uncommon for a customer to ship his gas tank to me so I can duplicate the original graphics. Upon completion, their bodywork is returned when they receive their decals. They are not only helping their own project but also making the decal available for other restorers as well.

What I have strived for since I started my business is not only to make sure that my decals are made with the highest quality materials available, but also to be true to the original by maintaining the decal's accuracy for the vintage restorer.